關於 ecriturehk ，我們在網路上蒐集到這些相關的討論、資訊與評價

Chef Maxime also improvises the commonly practiced croûte de sel (French salt-baking) technique into “sugar-baking”. The approach is more or less the same but he replaces sea salt with brown sugar. As such, the quail absorbs the natural sweetness of brown sugar. How genius! He pairs the quail with Daikoku Honshimeji mushroom, pistachio quail jus and rocket puree. The sweet nuttiness of the pistachio in the rich quail jus responds well with the quail infused with sugar-baked aroma; not only does the spiciness of the ocket puree complement the pistachio and sliced mushroom, it acts to balance the rich quail jus also.    
 
It’s a bit tiring to savor Chef Maxime’s dishes because of their high complexity, both in terms of construction and technique. It’s an exciting journey nevertheless discovering surprise after surprise at each tongue-tingling mouthful.  I told Chef Maxime: “If I were to compare your creations to sex, then you have so many tricks and it never gets dull!” He giggled and nodded in agreement: “Cooking is like making love, there must be ups and downs, twists and turns. When you’re the zone then the sex will be unforgettable.”

法菜中常見「鹽焗」（croûte de sel）烹調方式，又讓Chef Maxime緊緊捉住概念轉化成「糖焗」！大同小異的做法，只是把粗鹽換成黃糖，這麼一來，乳鴿吸收的不是鹹香，而是黃糖的自然甜香！是不是很天才？配菜是大黑本菇、開心果鴿汁、芝麻菜菜蓉——濃郁的鴿汁裡頭必須有開心果的堅果甜香來回應鴿身吸收的糖焗香氣，還要加上一點芝麻菜的菜蓉來跟開心果、菇片有個交流，以芝麻菜的獨特辛香讓本菇的植物性umami不至於太寡，同時中和鴿汁的濃郁。

Chef Maxime的菜，是會吃得有點累的菜式，因為菜品結構間的線索頗多，技術含量相對也高，每一道都有在他想像遊走間的起承轉合，在舌尖營造一閃一閃的驚喜。我跟Chef Maxime說：「如果把你的菜比喻為性愛，你的性愛是永不沈悶的招數！」他聽了邊大笑邊點頭認同；「做菜就跟做愛一樣，要有高低起伏，要有起承轉合，要令人不知生死，最後回味無窮！」

@mximeagilbert @ecriturehk @theforksandspoons852 @michelinguide @theworlds50best

#maximegilbert #ecriturehongkong #ecriture #michelinstar #michelinstarchef #asias50best #agnescheefoodcolumn #agnescheefoodcritic #hongkongfinedining #frenchfinedining #croutedesel #croutedusucre #quail #quaillover #foodandsex #foodcriticschoice #agnescheefoodcritic

Floral/ herbal fragrance is another distinguishing feature of @ecriturehk , a less commonly seen element elsewhere. One of the dishes I adore is the Amaebi (sweet shrimp ) sashimi with almond milk jelly, grapefruit and lavender extract. It’s refreshing, alluring and appetizing; rather poetic. If I am not mistaken, this dish is a creation of the chef de cuisine , @helofischbach. Well done!!
 
To my surprise, the chamomile we often drink after a meal is used to make broth. Chef Maxime pairs the broth with roasted sweetbread (Ris de veau) and homemade French XO sauce (with a miniature edible bouquet as garnish). I’ve never tasted a sweetbread dish that exudes both strength and grace. However, credit must be given to the savory-dry French XO sauce too. The amount used was on point - it elevates the flavour of the sweetbread while the aroma of chamomile neutralizes its unyielding flavour. That’s an ingenious technique.        

花香/草本香也是Écriture菜品特色，在別處可能較為少見的元素。有一道甜蝦刺身佐杏仁奶凍、葡萄柚以及萃取自薰衣草的汁液，我喜歡得很，很純淨，有股脫俗的詩意，但味道開胃誘人。如沒記錯，這道菜是廚房女將 @helofischbach 的作品，確實十分優秀。

我們常在飯後喝的洋甘菊，竟然讓大廚用來調成湯底，跟自家製的「法式XO醬」配上烤製的小牛牛胸線吃，面層還有一小團的可食用花像個盤中花束，真沒吃過那麼剛中有柔的牛胸線菜式。然而，不可忽略「法式XO醬」那股乾貨鹹香的威力，它讓牛胸線更濃郁惹味些，只是比例恰好，力道點到即止，然後用洋甘菊的花草香氣去馴化剛烈的味道，別出心裁。

#amaebi #amaebisashimi #sweetbread

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Perhaps, Chef Maxime simply likes things to be complicated therefore he favours one particular cooking technique -  kombu jime i.e wrapping marinated ingredients (usually seafood) with kombu, allowing it to absorb the umani flavour of the kombu. The result: sophisticated taste layering. On this basis, Chef Maxime created Beef Cecina Jime. He wraps sea bream fillet with Cecina de Leon (Spanish air-dried cured beef) and pairs it with asparagus poached in seawater （pic 2). To complete the dish, he grates some bottarga on top to complement the savory beef flavour infused in the sea bream fillet. Voila, the complex flavours of sea and land intertwine with every mouthful.    

也許是「喜歡複雜」，所以Chef Maxime特別著重一種料理手法：日式的昆布醃（kombu jime），就是把食材（通常是魚鮮）以昆布裹起進行醃製，好讓食材吸收昆布的鮮味，吃起來更有一言難盡的層次感。他把這個概念轉化成用西班牙風乾牛肉火腿包裹著鯛魚片來作「Beef Cecina Jime」，再以這鯛魚片配海水灼熟的青蘆筍來吃，然後刨上烏魚子來配搭鯛魚片裡鹹香牛肉味，海陸的熟成滋味就在暗地裡交接。

@mximeagilbert @ecriturehk @theforksandspoons852 @michelinguide @theworlds50best

#kombujime #beefcecina #beefcecinajime